2018 Macbook Pro Cracked Screen
Hi,
Have anyone had an issue with new Macbook pro that the screen is broken inside? Today I've opened my MacBook and it looks like something got broken inside the screen. On the outside, there isn't any crack or scratch and since last use, it was lying on the desk. At first, I thought it's a software problem, but resetting NVRAM and SMC didn't help. I think the only option left is giving it under guaranty to apple. Does anyone had this issue or has any idea what can be done?
I dropped my Macbook last year on its bottom right hand corner. The screen cracked a little bit, maybe about half an inch long. Since then I have had no problems but behind the crack, there is a black line behind the crack that has slowly been expanding. Macbook Pro Screen Replacement The most common issue we see with the MacBook Pro is screen glass damage. Frequent drops and other accidents are usually the cause but it’s a piece of cake for us.
Screenshots when the screen is on, you can see a crack inside a screen.
When the laptop is off you can see that there is no damage or crack, scratch or anything:
MacBook Pro TouchBar and Touch ID, macOS Mojave (10.14.1), MacBook pro 2018
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Introduction
Use this guide to replace the entire display assembly on your MacBook Pro, in order to fix a cracked or faulty screen. This assembly also includes the integrated ribbon cables that are known to fail as part of the “FlexGate” defect on earlier models, so replacing it will also resolve the “stage lights” effect and other issues resulting from ribbon cable damage.
New Macbook Pro For 2018
Although we’ve successfully tested this procedure on 2018 models using original Apple replacement displays, Apple’s T2 chip may prevent aftermarket displays from working correctly, and your MacBook Pro may not boot as a result.
For your safety, discharge your MacBook Pro's battery below 25% before you begin. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured.
- P5 Pentalobe Screwdriver Retina MacBook Pro and Air
- Suction Handle
- iFixit Opening Picks set of 6
- Spudger
- Tweezers
- T3 Torx Screwdriver
- T5 Torx Screwdriver
- T8 Torx Screwdriver
- P2 Pentalobe Screwdriver iPhone
No parts specified.
Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot.
Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.
Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or 'enter.'
You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.
When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:
sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.
Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:
Four 4.7 mm screws
Two 6.6 mm screws
Note how the screws come out at a slight angle—you must reinstall them the same way.
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.
Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.
Pull up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.
Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.
This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
Repeat the previous step on the other side, using an opening pick to to release the second clip.
Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover should pop free at this point, if they haven't already.
Don't lift more than an inch or so, and don't try to remove the lower case yet.
Pull firmly to slide the lower case towards the front edge of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.
Pull first at one corner, then the other.
Pull to the side—not up.
This may require a lot of force.
Remove the lower case.
To reinstall the lower case:
Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.
When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips underneath. You should feel and hear them snap into place.
Peel up and remove the insulating sticker covering the battery board, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.
If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
If the cover doesn't seat securely during reassembly, try rotating it 180 degrees. It must be oriented correctly in order for the adhesive pads underneath to contact the board screws.
Peel back any tape covering the battery board data cable connector.
Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket on the logic board.
Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
Pry up and disconnect the locking flap on the connector at the opposite end of the battery board data cable.
Slide the battery board data cable out of its socket on the battery board, and remove it completely.
Take care not to install this cable backwards or upside-down. When installed correctly, the white liquid indicator sticker should face up, positioned directly over the battery power connector screw.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
Use a spudger to lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.
Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.
Remove the display board flex cover.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.
Remove the display board cable connector bracket.
Pry the display board flex cable straight up from its socket to disconnect it from the display board.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 2.0 mm screws from the hinge covers (two screws on each side).
Remove both hinge covers.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.
Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.
To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the four 3.3 mm screws securing the display board.
Before reinstalling these screws:
Make sure the display board flex cable lies on top of the board, not trapped underneath.
Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove the sixteen 1.5 mm screws securing the antenna assembly.
Use an opening pick to pry up the antenna assembly and separate it from the MacBook Pro.
Watch out for the delicate ribbon cables in the middle section. Avoid sliding the pick from side to side so as not to damage the cables.
Carefully remove the antenna assembly, while simultaneously feeding the antenna cable bundle out from underneath the heat sink.
During reassembly, gently pinch the cable bundle together and guide it under the heat pipe into the correct position on the board. If needed, use your tools to help guide it through, but don't force it.
Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 3.9 mm screws securing the display cable cover springs.
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove two 4.9 mm screws from each hinge (four screws total).
Each hinge has a third screw, which you should leave in place for now.
During reassembly, first install the hinge screws without tightening them. Then adjust the screen until it is correctly centered and aligned on each side. Finally, tighten the screws.
If your screen clicks or snaps upon opening, loosen the hinge screws and adjust the alignment. Make sure the screen doesn't sit too far forward, or it can catch on the body when opening and closing.
If desired, add a little blue threadlocker to the screw threads to prevent them from loosening over time.
If you plan to re-use your screen, open it and apply a piece of tape to the glass directly above each hinge. This helps protect the glass from getting scratched in the following step.
Fully open the screen and stand your MacBook Pro up on one side.
Use a T8 Torx driver to remove the two remaining 4.9 mm hinge screws (one from each hinge).
Remove the topmost screw last, using one hand to steady both halves of the MacBook Pro to make sure they don't separate and fall over unexpectedly.
Keep a firm grip on both the screen and main body of the MacBook Pro. Either half can fall unexpectedly during this step.
Push both halves of the MacBook Pro together so that the hinges can be lifted clear of their recesses in the chassis.
Push the main body of the MacBook Pro away from you while pulling the screen toward you to separate it.
Remove the screen.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.
To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.
Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.
Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.
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